Chain Mail for Armor

So, this is the story.

I decided that I was not going to fight in chainmail armor because it adds no protection for SCA rattan fighting and it is heavy. Well chainmail is period and looks good. So, I have decided that I will add chainmail accents to my new armor. If I put a bit of chainmail here and there in just the right places it will look like I am wearing a chainmail shirt under my cuirass.

We all know that chainmail armor is made from flat rings that are riveted. So, I took the small anvil I use to make rivet heads and added a couple more holes and made a jig to flatten the rings and keep them rounded and a tapered hole all the way through the anvil that I could use to round the rings and cause the overlap for riveting. Well it worked great but it was is time consuming. I have abandoned the idea. Maybe another time.

I however did not decide to abandon the flat rings.

I used a regular smooth face hammer to flatten a few rings right on the anvil. This works great if you have good hammer technique. The only problem was how plain it looked.

Then I started looking at my hammers. I found one of my 3 pound had rings in the surface to prevent slipping when striking a spike. I decided to give this hammer a try and found it made a cool pattern on the rings. That was all it took for me to decide this was the hammer I would use to flatten out the rings.

Now I am doing the rings in the most simple fashion. I am laying the ring on the anvil and striking it flat with the hammer.

My chainmail accents on my armor will be bronze chainmail made of flattened rings butted instead of riveted. Maybe sometime in the future I will do riveted chainmail but not for this project.

Creating the Greaves

Well, I am starting with the greaves because I made a pair a couple years ago. I consider these a prototype. They are great to fight in but there are a few modification I want to do when I make the next pair.

So, here is how they were made.

Start by measuring the leg, noting where your knee will be and such. There are about 8 measurements to take. After you have all the measurements you need to draw your pattern.





Next you will transfer your pattern to the metal you will use for the greaves. I use chalk to draw the pattern onto the sheet metal.

Next you will cut the metal pattern out. I did not do a great job with placement of my pattern for cutting but cold rolled mild steel sheet is cheap. I used 16 gauge for this project.

To cut the metal I used a throatless shear. The one I had at the time was a Central Forge knockoff of the Beverly B1. It cost me about $90 at Harbor Freight Tools and it works well wit 16 gauge. That is about the thickest metal you can cut with it.

It works really great for light work and cuts 14 gauge brass sheets with no problems. I have since acquired a Beverly B3 that it really sweet. It can handle any cutting I need to do for armor.

The knockoff is now only used for cutting brass and bronze sheet.

So, after you get the pieces cut out and the edges filed so they are not so sharp, it is time to get out the hammer and start pounding the metal.

I started by raising the sides.

You will also notice in the picture that I marked the center and the area to dish for the knee.

I do all my dishing on a flat stump. I am dishing not sinking the metal. It can be used to hammer a roll in a straight line or to create a dish.

After I start the curve on both sides I will start to dish out the knee.

After the knee is started I can continue to round the the leg and round up the sides.


After the leg front is round the knee dished and the sides curved up it is time to roll the edge that sits on the top of the foot.


Then you have a greave. I made the pair in about 5 hours. Not including planishing and adding straps.



The greaves are great for fighting. Full protection of my shins. Nothing to catch like with an articulated knee. My greaves are 2 inches above my knee to keep from getting a sword tip to the knee cap when I am stepping forward. The only time I see a problem is when fighting from my knees. I have not been tipped on the knee yet but it could happen. I plan to make a small articulated piece to protect my knee when fighting on my knees.

How to armor a 4th Century Jute

So, I am on the path to creating a 4th century AD jute warrior persona for the SCA. If you want to know what the SCA is check out www.sca.org.

I decided to make my kit as period as possible. It is a personal goal and challenge. I am starting my blog trip with armor since this has been the hardest thing to get hard information on. Most sources start with the Vikings and group all other things from Jutland in with the Celtic and the Roman Iron Age. Most finds of armor are listed as Roman since the Romans wrote that the celts did not wear armor.

So, we know that there was heavy trade with the Greeks and the Romans by the people of Jutland. The armies of the rest of the nations in the known world had armor so, why not the Jutes?

Next what would be possible period armor for a Jute and be protective for SCA combat.

The answer is a combination of armor that could be in the price range of a mercenary.

For the legs greaves. The Greeks used them and so did the Romans. Not hard to make.

The body will be a leather breast piece and belt with bronze plates and bronze lorica segmentata style shoulders. It would be something that could be made by imitation of items used by enemies. This will offer good protection, better than chain, and it will be lighter than other options.

The upper legs will be scale mail or Lorica Squamata. It was know to a wide range of cultures and was found in digs in Denmark dating to the 4th century. Very flexible and lighter than chainmail.

So that leaves the Head. I already wear a spangen helm but is it period?

That would depend on the spangen style. Mine is similar to one found in Deurne. It is a ridge spangen. Period for 4th century and know of in Jutland.

Well that is the plan for the armor of a Jute warrior in the SCA. I will post additional blogs as the armor comes together.