Creating a Jute Warrior

New Helmet Padding

2010-04-02T10:53:00.000-07:00

Well, anyone who fights knows that foam padding does not breath well in a steel helmet. So I decided to make a new padding system for my helmet. It is linen fabric stuffed with bamboo fiber batting. It is a little over stuffed but fits my head and the helm well and snuggly. There is no movement of the helm at all. It use to have a little movement with the foam lining. The reason I over stuffed it was because I believe the batting will breakdown a little with use.

I hope it will breath better than the foam and I know it will absorb moisture, which is a good thing. Now I need to make a new helmet strap and try it out next week at Celt Wars.

The New Gorget Revisited

2009-05-01T06:06:00.000-07:00

Well, I got to try my new gorget out at Blackstone Raids. I really like the design and it was protective. It definitely gives more protection than a leather dog collar style gorget. Yet, it was not perfect. I really never realized what kind of abuse I put myself through when I take the field. Up until I met Oona I really only wore the minimum armor required and only took minor injuries and lots of bruises. So, where is this leading? It is leading to the fact that 22 gauge copper is not going to be rigid enough for a gorget for SCA Heavy combat.

The gorget was working great and I was loving it. It is light, fits me perfectly and it passed inspection. Then I get knocked over a hay bail backwards with my legs trapped. This leads to me landing on my back but, I landed on my head first. This caused my helm to crash into my gorget with great force. One of the laims on the lobster tail was creased by the bottom of my helm. My face grill hit the front of the gorget and caused it to bend up a little. I never even realized that the helm came into contact with my body other than the ringing in my head. I found the damage after going to resurrection and heading back into the line a few more times. Then during the break between battles I took my helm and gorget off and found the damage. The crease in the lobster tail is a perfect match for the back edge of my helm.

I learned that even though it creased it was very protective. I would hate to think what might have happened if the lobster tail from the gorget had not been there. Maybe a nice crease in a vertebra. I learned that even though hammered 22 gauge feels rigid enough to normal pressure and force, it is not rigid enough for SCA Heavy combat. Now where do I go from here? I have 14 gauge copper in the garage but that might be a little over kill and an increase in weight. I could buy 18 gauge and give that a try. Or, I could continue to fight in the one I have and see if it holds up over time.

I believe that if I had been wearing the old aluminum on that I would have been injured because it does not have the lobster tail down the back. So, in that regard it was more protective. The design is good the materials are OK but need improving.

Now it is time to start the gorget mark II. I guess I will use the 14 gauge copper I have on hand.

New Gorget project part 2

2009-04-19T08:35:00.001-07:00

Well, except for padding and lining the new gorget is finished. I learned a few things about compound curves and there are some hammer nicks. I decided to leave the hammered look instead of sanding and polishing. I feel it gives it character. It is surprisingly rigid for being only 22 gauge copper and brass. It fits perfectly and is lighter than my old aluminum one.

Oona has already placed a request for one. I will make her new belt this week and try to get her new shoulders done before Blackstone Raids and then I will make her a gorget.

Oona is making me a new fighting tunic from a honey colored linen we found a Joann's on sell at 50%off. It will look sharp with the gorget.

New Gorget project

2009-04-19T08:33:00.000-07:00

So, I have an aluminum gorget that is to large for me and it bruises my collar bone. The other night I decided to make a new one. It gave me the chance to make something with compound curves and a rolled edge. It is just in the beginning stages but I hope to have it ready for Blackstone Raids next weekend.

The armor Project - Chainmail

2008-09-14T05:38:00.000-07:00

Well I am still hammering scales for the skirt and that is a long process. So as a side project I started knitting the chainmail for the armor. I have decided that I need to do a full documentation of the armor with the dig site the elements were found and the dating and cultural information from the finds.

So here are some pictures of what is done on the chainmail.

Scale Skirt project

2008-05-02T05:47:00.000-07:00

Just a quick update.

I did not get the scale horsemans skirt done by Blackstone Raids. The cutting of the plates and the punching of the holes moves rather quickly once I get into the rythm but, hammering each plate to get the slight curve and to work harden the metal is a slow process.

I will continue to work on the skirt but I will bounce to other projects with more instant gradification. I will start on the curaiss this weekend. I will also work on the vembraces, too. there are also the sheaths for swords, belts, baldric and other things needed for the full armor.

I am excited about the whole project.

Scale Armor Project continues

2008-04-20T08:09:00.000-07:00

Well the armor is not coming together as quickly as I had hoped. The scales are taking a long time to produce. You have to cut and shape the scales, then you have to mark and punch the holes and then you have to file the edges and finally hammer them into a slight curve. The hammering also work hardens the brass and makes a stiffer piece. The hammering is time consuming and a pain with the small scales. Once all that is done you have to do the linking of the scales and that can be frustrating.

Below is a 3 row section. I ran out of hammered scales. Time to start pounding some more metal.

Below is a closeup of how the scales look from the front.

This is a close up of the back.

Now off to do some more hammering.

The Scale Skirt - Part 2 update

2008-04-06T15:46:00.000-07:00

So, I was thinking about the problem I was having yesterday using the rings and ending up using "staples". Today I decided to try something completely crazy, I changed the hole size from 3/32 to 1/8 and the rings worked. I did not change anything else with position yet it made all the difference in the world. It did not change the ability of the scales to move greatly, it did improve some though but it will dramatically improve the time it takes to assemble the pieces.

The Scale Skirt - Part 2

2008-04-06T05:48:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I did more work on the scale armor. I rounded the ends marked out the places to punch the holes and finished up 5 complete plates. I planned to use some of the rings I cut for my chainmail to attach the plates. At this point I discovered why they call it experiential archeology.

With only photos of originals to work from it is hard to make out the details. I will explain this in a moment. First lets see what the scales look like.

Here are the originals.

Looking closely you can see the hole pattern and connection "staples". Well I was wandering why they refer to them as staples. Well I found if you make the holes for round links at the proper distance and then stack the plates it does not go together well. A more squared off staple shape works better. You get movement between rows of scales and a little side to side movement but not much, just enough to allow for body movement and muscle flex. The thing that was surprising was how strong the piece becomes when held together with 14 gauge brass wire. It is like building a semi -flexible plate armor. It would take a very good and well aimed upward thrust to get through this armor. The slight curve of the individual plates does not leave a flat surface and it flexes enough to absorb force and transfer it across the armor.

It is not going to be as flexible as I thought but it is much stronger then expected. I will see about getting a round link to work and see if it adds to the flex.

Here are the five plates that I connected.

The tools used.

More to follow as I get the full skirt assembled.

The Scale Skirt - Part 1

2008-04-05T05:35:00.000-07:00

Well, it has been a while since this blog started. I went silent but now I am back. I moved and the work space is just getting set up. So, the first thing I need to make is leg protection. And this is why, courtesy of Arundoor. (photo taken six days after the attack)

So, I started the scale skirt. It is based off a find in Denmark that is listed as a Roman scale and dated to around 360 to 400 CE. It is not connected to fabric but is connected scale to scale with "staples". There are sever finds across Europe of this style scale armor.

My scales are 1.5 x 2 inch red brass. I spent a couple hours on Thursday evening cutting out the squares from 6 x 12 inch sheets of 20 gauge brass.

This is the setup. I used my small Central Forge throatless shears. I picked this up from Harbor Freight a few years back for under $100 and I love it. I have a Beverly B3 throatless shear that can be seen behind the area but it sucks for soft low gauge metal.

So after the squares where cut I had to mark them for the curve at the bottom. This took a good part of the evening on Friday as we sat having bad movie night, consisting of Idiocracy, and Evil Aliens. (movie review: Idiocracy is so stupid that it is not even worth watching from a free loaned video. The kid wanted to see the whole thing so we watched it. Evil Aliens is a bad, sick and twisted British movie that is also funny. If you have a warped mind you should see this film, but send the kids away.) Now back to the metal.

After two evenings I now have a bunch of squares that need to be rounded on the ends. So, I am now off to the garage to get to work.

More on this project to come.

Chain Mail for Armor

2007-02-23T11:57:00.000-08:00

So, this is the story.

I decided that I was not going to fight in chainmail armor because it adds no protection for SCA rattan fighting and it is heavy. Well chainmail is period and looks good. So, I have decided that I will add chainmail accents to my new armor. If I put a bit of chainmail here and there in just the right places it will look like I am wearing a chainmail shirt under my cuirass.

We all know that chainmail armor is made from flat rings that are riveted. So, I took the small anvil I use to make rivet heads and added a couple more holes and made a jig to flatten the rings and keep them rounded and a tapered hole all the way through the anvil that I could use to round the rings and cause the overlap for riveting. Well it worked great but it was is time consuming. I have abandoned the idea. Maybe another time.

I however did not decide to abandon the flat rings.

I used a regular smooth face hammer to flatten a few rings right on the anvil. This works great if you have good hammer technique. The only problem was how plain it looked.

Then I started looking at my hammers. I found one of my 3 pound had rings in the surface to prevent slipping when striking a spike. I decided to give this hammer a try and found it made a cool pattern on the rings. That was all it took for me to decide this was the hammer I would use to flatten out the rings.

Now I am doing the rings in the most simple fashion. I am laying the ring on the anvil and striking it flat with the hammer.

My chainmail accents on my armor will be bronze chainmail made of flattened rings butted instead of riveted. Maybe sometime in the future I will do riveted chainmail but not for this project.

Creating the Greaves

2007-02-14T13:52:00.000-08:00

Well, I am starting with the greaves because I made a pair a couple years ago. I consider these a prototype. They are great to fight in but there are a few modification I want to do when I make the next pair.

So, here is how they were made.

Start by measuring the leg, noting where your knee will be and such. There are about 8 measurements to take. After you have all the measurements you need to draw your pattern.

Next you will transfer your pattern to the metal you will use for the greaves. I use chalk to draw the pattern onto the sheet metal.

Next you will cut the metal pattern out. I did not do a great job with placement of my pattern for cutting but cold rolled mild steel sheet is cheap. I used 16 gauge for this project.

To cut the metal I used a throatless shear. The one I had at the time was a Central Forge knockoff of the Beverly B1. It cost me about $90 at Harbor Freight Tools and it works well wit 16 gauge. That is about the thickest metal you can cut with it.

It works really great for light work and cuts 14 gauge brass sheets with no problems. I have since acquired a Beverly B3 that it really sweet. It can handle any cutting I need to do for armor.

The knockoff is now only used for cutting brass and bronze sheet.

So, after you get the pieces cut out and the edges filed so they are not so sharp, it is time to get out the hammer and start pounding the metal.

I started by raising the sides.

You will also notice in the picture that I marked the center and the area to dish for the knee.

I do all my dishing on a flat stump. I am dishing not sinking the metal. It can be used to hammer a roll in a straight line or to create a dish.

After I start the curve on both sides I will start to dish out the knee.

After the knee is started I can continue to round the the leg and round up the sides.

After the leg front is round the knee dished and the sides curved up it is time to roll the edge that sits on the top of the foot.

Then you have a greave. I made the pair in about 5 hours. Not including planishing and adding straps.

The greaves are great for fighting. Full protection of my shins. Nothing to catch like with an articulated knee. My greaves are 2 inches above my knee to keep from getting a sword tip to the knee cap when I am stepping forward. The only time I see a problem is when fighting from my knees. I have not been tipped on the knee yet but it could happen. I plan to make a small articulated piece to protect my knee when fighting on my knees.

How to armor a 4th Century Jute

2007-02-12T18:26:00.000-08:00

So, I am on the path to creating a 4th century AD jute warrior persona for the SCA. If you want to know what the SCA is check out www.sca.org.

I decided to make my kit as period as possible. It is a personal goal and challenge. I am starting my blog trip with armor since this has been the hardest thing to get hard information on. Most sources start with the Vikings and group all other things from Jutland in with the Celtic and the Roman Iron Age. Most finds of armor are listed as Roman since the Romans wrote that the celts did not wear armor.

So, we know that there was heavy trade with the Greeks and the Romans by the people of Jutland. The armies of the rest of the nations in the known world had armor so, why not the Jutes?

Next what would be possible period armor for a Jute and be protective for SCA combat.

The answer is a combination of armor that could be in the price range of a mercenary.

For the legs greaves. The Greeks used them and so did the Romans. Not hard to make.

The body will be a leather breast piece and belt with bronze plates and bronze lorica segmentata style shoulders. It would be something that could be made by imitation of items used by enemies. This will offer good protection, better than chain, and it will be lighter than other options.

The upper legs will be scale mail or Lorica Squamata. It was know to a wide range of cultures and was found in digs in Denmark dating to the 4th century. Very flexible and lighter than chainmail.

So that leaves the Head. I already wear a spangen helm but is it period?

That would depend on the spangen style. Mine is similar to one found in Deurne. It is a ridge spangen. Period for 4th century and know of in Jutland.

Well that is the plan for the armor of a Jute warrior in the SCA. I will post additional blogs as the armor comes together.